The paper focused on the impact of carding performance particularly Neps Removal Efficiency (NRE) on the yarn quality. — By Jill Lee, ARS. In a recent paper, Goynes, Patricia D. Bel-Berger, Eugene J. Blanchard, and other SRRC cotton researchers tracked white-speck neps from the field through processing, including their occurrence in dyed and enzyme-treated fabrics. White speck neps … They were reported as early as 1874. Major: Mixed Yarn: Mixed yarn is a different fiber blend … White specks are dye-resistant neps… But, when attempting to make a perfectly smooth yarn, I often recommend three things: pick a sound fleece, make sure the fleece is fully washed, and comb it versus carding it. CONCLUSIONSFiber entanglements or neps are the main source of impurities in cotton, followed by seedcoat fragments and non-seed impurities. The paper was full of new research. Interpretive Summary: Cotton fiber neps and seed coat neps are impurities in cotton raw fibers that reduce yarn quality and eventually lower dye quality and cause flecks in cotton fabrics. Site Map Neps that remain in spun yarns have a direct influence on neps in fabrics .For almost all types of yarn or fabric, neps are considered defects. A tangle of mature fiber can still take up dye. Cotton fiber neps are not a genetically occurring property in seed cotton . When choosing a fleece to process into nep-free yarn you want to make sure it is high quality. "Neps can sneak up on mills: The money is spent to dye the fabric, and it comes out spattered with white specks where the dye didn't take.". Sometimes immature neps appear as "Specks" in certain shades after dyeing. Goynes is a chemist in the Cotton Fiber Quality Research Unit at the Agricultural Research Service's Southern Regional Research Center (SRRC) in New Orleans, Louisiana. Bel-Berger, a textile engineer in the SRRC's Cotton Fiber Quality Research Unit who also worked on the award-winning paper, has found that mechanical processing can play a role in white-speck nep control. Abstract . Another example of how Goynes' work with SEMs has benefited the environment is his study of nonwoven fabrics. … And, Blanchard found, some dyes may work better with enzymes than others. Wilton R. Goynes used an SEM to confirm that small, undyeable clumps of cotton fibers—known in the textile industry as white-speck neps--are the result of underdeveloped cotton. It also helps chemists like Blanchard prove that experimental enzyme treatments are effective in controlling neps. Cotton grading systems such as HVI (high-volume instrumentation) can track neps, but not all neps produce white specks. The Uster Evenness Tester measures neps in yarns as short thick spots. And work in slow turns small amounts at a time. This represents less than 8% of the cotton worldwide. However, if a bad growing season produces bales with a large number of undeveloped fiber clumps, blending cannot solve the problem. If the equipment is inadequate, the final result will be full of neps. "There are various dyes for cotton, including direct and reactive classes," he says. (1998) and Hebert et al. In a study by Hebert et. Ginning conditions that influence nep formation are the ginning process itself, the amount of lint cleaning, heat history and the amount of energy input into the individual fiber. Technically, neps are tangles of fiber. Others will be directed toward detecting immature white-speck neps before they reach the dye bath. Will appear as a distinct shade change. Cotton fibers are usually made up of a thin primary cell wall and a thicker secondary one. Neps are small entanglements or knots of fibers. In general, two types of neps can be defined; fiber neps and seed coated neps. Fiber Fineness (Micronaire), Neps in Card Web, and Yarn Appearance Grades Charles T. Marth, Harry E. Arthur, and Earl E. Berkley Textile Research Journal 1952 22 : 9 , 561-566 Taking you time in the combing/carding process is the most important part in spinning a beautiful smooth yarn. | There is no specific advantage to either, whether you like them or not is based off a personal preference. This is important because even a high quality fleece will have a certain amount of unideal traits. They adversely affect the appearance of yarn and fabrics. The cross-sectional size of neps is + 140% to +400% of … Fiber neps are small knots consisting only of fiber material. He was able to confirm this, because electron microscopy allowed him to see and assess the speed and degree of decomposition over time. The wool combs are more efficient at removing the short fibers, neps, noils, and vm. Consumers fill U.S. landfills with them, so these products need to be biodegradable. Fiber entanglements are called neps. | ARS Home How to Process Fine Fleece into Nep-Free Yarn Neps are best described as dense, tangled clumps of the short fibers of the fleece. Higher numbers of neps were detected in … "Since reactive dyes chemically bind to fabrics, their colors stay true with enzyme detergents. White specks are a specific type of fiber defect that result in high financial losses to the cotton industry. Even with cotton varieties that were prone to white-speck neps, Blanchard saw reductions of 33 percent. These scientific tools have their own special advantages and will lead to more discoveries in the future. Now Goynes' verification that the white-speck neps are really the result of underdeveloped fibers allows him and other researchers to focus on solutions. Her image analysis of dyed fabrics showed tandem-carded white-speck neps … Seed coated neps … Goynes and Blanchard explored whether enzymes such as cellulase can modify undeveloped fibers to improve fabric dyeability. Definition of Neps Neps may be considered as small tight balls of entangled fibers which lead to the downgrading or yarn and fabric. Wilton R. Goynes, Eugene J. Blanchard, and Patricia D. Bel-Berger are at the USDA-ARS Southern Regional Research Center, 1100 Robert E. Lee Blvd., New Orleans, LA 70179. As far as making sure the fleece is fully washed, I mean making sure all of the lanolin is out and most of the weathered ends are removed. White House, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. Meanwhile, other SRRC scientists use SEMs not only for cotton research, but for projects on rice, peanuts, and corn as well. Some people don’t worry about neps and allow them to form to add texture to their yarn, but others prefer a nep-free, smooth yarn. The fiber maturity and fiber yellowness in the model also portrayed significant influence on the number of neps in ring spinning which would mean that as the maturity and yellowness of cotton fibers increase yarn neps will increase. Neps are best described as dense, tangled clumps of the short fibers of the fleece. USA.gov Consumers also want lasting color for their clothes. Cotton mills clean and straighten fibers using a process known as carding, in which the fiber is run through a large drumlike roller with combing wires. These fiber neps come with optimal purity averaging around 97% to 99% and have distinct melting points and boiling points depending on the intermediate material. Much has been done with fiber research, thanks to the electron microscope. | It uses electrons to scan a sample's surface and form images, in much the same way a television does. When carding your fleece, you have to be sure the equipment being used can properly handle fine fibers. veloped fiber neps, single carding is better than tandem carding, which tends to open and separate the white-speck neps, making the problem appear worse. Take microscopes as a case in point. This agrees with the findings of Kluka et al. For example, since the clumps of undyeable flat fibers reflect light differently from mature cotton, Goynes says there may be a way to use special lighting to detect these immature fibers before money is wasted on trying to dye them. According to Uster [ 1 ], the nep level in the bales (≈ 100 to 900 nep/g) is slightly lower than the level in the fiber approaching the card. Thus, the existence of neps in a cotton bale is inevitable. Some will involve improving conditions in the field. My third recommendation, comb it opposed to carding it, comes from multiple outside sources, as well as, personal experience. Newer instruments, like the atomic force microscope, are being used by the center. | USDA.gov Bales of high-quality cotton can be blended with lower grades to use more of the cotton crop. Neps may be further categorized into ‘seedcoat neps’ – which have a piece of the seedcoat attached to the fibres (see figure 2.17) – and ‘shiny neps… Immature cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) fibers and neps in ginned cotton will affect textile quality and thus can affect overall industry reputations. But textile makers, like all other industries, have to also be concerned about their impact on the environment. Technology advances are not stagnant. Neps. It's just the tangles of very immature fibers that become undyeable white-speck neps. But, when attempting to make a perfectly smooth yarn, I often recommend three things: pick a sound fleece, make sure the. The electron microscope lets researchers see fiber wear long before consumers can—so industry can choose treatments that keep clothing looking good and lasting longer. Non-overlapping areas were chosen randomly and … Neps are "blemishes" in the yarn. "The white-speck problem actually comes from the field, when plants or growing conditions don't allow the fibers to mature properly," says Goynes. The appearance of common neps on yarns and fabrics is shown in figure 2.16. Some people don’t worry about neps and allow them to form to add texture to their yarn, but others prefer a nep-free, smooth yarn. A high nep level is from 350 to 500 neps/g. Moisture is the proportion of water that is existent in the sample. Most mills use two carding cylinders--to perform tandem carding. Some of the applications for these fiber neps … Definition of Neps Neps may be considered as small tight balls of entangled fibers which lead to the downgrading or yarn and fabric. New on the USTER®AFIS PRO 2is the categorization of fiber neps in addition to the seedcoat neps category that already existed. It won the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists' top prize in last year's Inter-Section Technical Paper Competition. For detecting neps in a textile fiber fleece band transported along a transporting path through a carding machine a detecting device comprises a mechanism for illuminating the fiber fleece … The higher quality fleeces have fewer short fibers, therefore, cutting back on the chances of neps forming. For under an SEM, white-speck neps appeared as mats of ribbonlike material, giving researchers proof of their origin. al., it was determined that in most cases fiber neps are made up of five or more fibers with the average number of fibers approximating 16. Fiber … Bel-Berger is now working with industry collaborators to confirm her results. Carding and combing are designed to align fibers and remove imperfections such as neps | | In a best-case scenario, a cotton bale will have about 100 to 200 pure fiber neps per gram. Combing: Combing is the process used to remove short fibres and neps from sheets of cotton fibres (lap). Sometimes those lower-tech tools reveal things the more advanced equipment can't. | If the findings prove true, mill operators can pre-test their cotton and process it accordingly. "Cotton fibers come from the plant with waxes, pectins, and proteins on their surfaces. As washing technology has advanced, so have the tools of textile science. Other fiber folks, such as Alden Amos in his Big Book of Handspinning, use nep to describe "wads of knotted, tangled fibers," while noil refers more specifically to "short, broken bits of fiber." And, as with white-speck nep control, SEMs provide scientists another way to look at this problem. A tangle of mature fiber can still take up dye. Neps (n), seed-coat fragments (SCF), and non-seed impurities (NSI) found in lint fiber samples were spread about 1.5 cm2 on a petri dish. "Neps … 5.4. Plain Writing Mills have to remove waxy materials to dye fabric," says Goynes. Goynes and coworkers found that cotton degraded faster than synthetic materials often used in these disposable products. These materials are often used in disposable cloth products such as diapers, moist towelettes, and personal care products. (1986). Furthermore, “Ninety-six … It is … The scientists at SRRC are looking for new ways to process cotton that are kinder to the environment. | linage analysis is being used to quantify white speck neps on dyed fabric. It also appears that some dyes—both direct and reactive—actually limit enzyme damage," Blanchard adds. Technically, neps are tangles of fiber. Explore the vast range of fiber neps at Alibaba.com and get your hands on these verified chemicals for distinct purposes. Nondiscrimination Statement The cross-sectional size of neps is + 140% to +400% of … Recent complaints from foreign mills, who … We'd like to see if biodegradable enzymes can do the job—and using electron microscopes is one way to find out.". This means, you are looking for a fleece that is consistent front to back, with a low amount of second cuts, wool breaks, and vegetable matter. Accessibility Statement Her image analysis of dyed fabrics showed tandem-carded white-speck neps to be larger and more numerous than single-carded ones and to result in a higher percentage of white on the dyed fabrics. Caused by bobbin of lightweight yarn or different fiber blend used in filling. The occurrence of seedcoat neps is increasing due to … It's just the tangles of very immature fibers that become undyeable white-speck neps. 5.1 Entangled cotton fibers that form neps have two sources: those that occur naturally as the cotton fiber develops on the plant into lint that is ready to be harvested and those that occur … Any remaining lanolin in the fleece causes stickiness, making it harder for it to slide smoothly through the combs and the remaining weathered tips may break off and form neps. | Policies and Links | #NepFreeYarn #SpinningWool #Spinningtheperfectyarn #ProcessingWool #Spinning #Handspun #LearntoSpin #Combing #Carding #SheepWool, How to Process Fine Fleece into Nep-Free Yarn, Neps are best described as dense, tangled clumps of the short fibers of the fleece. Neps in cotton continue to be a major problem in … NATI fits an enlarged fibre waste which box specifically conceived for testing large size samples is recommended specifically for combed cotton and synthetic slivers due to the small content of Neps… A roller with fine-toothed elements fixed on a half-lap is used. The carding parameters, settings and machine condition plays an … For example, Blanchard, who is a chemist in SRRC's Cotton Textile Chemical Research Unit, reported on enzyme pretreatments that could help reduce the number of white-speck neps. There is no specific advantage to either, whether you like them or not is based off a personal preference. This microscope allows researchers to look at fiber samples three-dimensionally, providing valuable information about morphological structure. Some people don’t worry about neps and allow … More than 90% of neps in finished fabric contain immature fibers (Hebert et al., 1988). Laundry equipment has come a long way since the Maytag Gyrofoam rescued our great-grandmothers from labor-intensive agitators and wringers in 1922. Immature cotton (Gossypium hirsutum L.) fibers and neps in ginned cotton will affect textile quality and thus can affect overall industry reputations. But light microscopes, which normally have a maximum magnification of 1,000 times, also have a place in Goynes' laboratory. His finding proved what researchers had suspected since the 1940s. A drum carder without a very fine cloth can cause the fibers to stretch, break, and spring back into the little knots. It fluctuates in … This level is then reduced in carding to the range … A nep can be defined as a small knot (or cluster) of entangled fibres consisting either entirely of fibres (i.e. Bel-Berger's surprising find was that when cotton has lots of underdeveloped fiber neps, single carding is better than tandem carding, which tends to open and separate the white-speck neps, making the problem appear worse. Textile terms and definitions define a `Nep’ as a small knot of entangled fibres that usually comprises dead or immature fibres. "The white-speck problem actually comes from the field, when plants or growing conditions don't allow the fibers to mature properly," says Goynes. Neps are created by the mechanical handling and cleaning of the cotton fibers. A third category of neps found on the surface of the dyed fabrics was named pancake type neps. Privacy Policy Materials engineer Patricia Bel-Berger and chemists Bill Goynes (center) and Eugene Blanchard examine scanning electron micrographs (SEMs) that show the structure of a white-speck nep. It's the secondary wall that gives the fiber a rounded, tubelike shape and makes for easy dyeing. This type of nep appears as light or white spots in the finished fabric. FOIA The more tines of the comb, the more effective it will be. The neps increase throughout the ginning and opening and cleaning process. Fiber Longitudinal Measurements for Predicting White Speck Contents of Dyed Cotton Fabrics Patricia Damian Bel SRRC, ARS, USDA, 1100 Robert E. Lee Blve, New Orleans, LA, USA Bugao Xu1 University of Texas at Austin, Austin, Texas, TX, USA There is a perception that U.S. upland cotton has high levels of neps… Moisture. Detergent makers now add enzymes to reduce pilling, but there is a risk of fading the color and weakening the fabric. It's not enough that fabric dyes well. Information Quality Some direct dyes, which are just positioned within the fiber structure, may fade after several washes. a fibre nep) or of foreign matter (e.g. Interpretive Summary: Tangles or knots of fiber (called neps by the industry) in roller ginned Pima cotton are of special concern to the textile industry. All this research is good news for industry—and consumers—because it allows for less wasted material and a higher quality product. ClassicalIy, neps are measured by counting them in a card web, but now AFISTM can be used for high-speed measurement of neps in fiber samples. of mechanical neps. The amount and … The scanning electron microscope (SEM) was developed in 1942 and has been commercially available since the early 1960s. "But the alcohols and chlorinated solvents once favored by industry are now restricted because of environmental concerns. This test method provides a consistent and repeatable measurement of fiber … A manageable average nep level in a bale is from 200 to 350 neps/g. (K7590-1). Without that secondary cell wall, the fibers look flat—like the ribbons that are revealed by the SEM.
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